Wednesday, May 11, 2011

A 3 Week Montage


So hard to believe, but I only have four days left here in Rome...

It feels like I just got here! I don't have time for any deep reflection (hello Greek and Art History exams tomorrow), but here are some of my favorite pictures from the weeks since we got back from spring break. Oh how time flies when you have so much work to do!

Forum/Markets of Trajan & Ostia.
Trajan was a cool emperor who built a lot of stuff. He built his own forum and also added a lot to Rome's infrastructure. Also, he had a large nose.
Ostia is Rome's most important port city. Relatively intact, and SO much fun to explore. It's also fairly cheap, and I know a few people who would take the train down there and wander around to do their homework on the weekends...

Column of Trajan celebrating a victory over the Dacians
View from Trajan's markets of his forum
Bath Complex at Ostia
Dolia Field (storage center) in Ostia
Ninja in the amphitheater...

Hadrian's Villa and Isola Sacra/Portus.
Hadrian came after Trajan, and also liked building, though he built a massive villa for himself outside of Rome. He also liked pumpkin domes, Greece, and this guy name Antinous, who he deified after Antinous drowned in the Nile. Yay, Roman emperors...
Isola Sacra is a necropolis, which is always fun to explore, and Portus is another port. We got to see the current excavations there, which no one gets to see, so that was cool.
1/2 of a pumpkin dome
Canopis/Serapaeum (water channel)
A circular....bath?
Roman middle class tomb
Banqueting beds outside a tomb

The next week took us to the Vatican Museum (again)/Pantheon area, and the Vatican Scavi (excavations under St Peter's).
At the Museum, we looked at some ancient art (I know, go figure), but also some early Christian art, which was very cool. I saw a sarcophagus that I had studied in a class at Macalester, and we even talked about it there, so I felt like an old pro haha.
The scavi is the necropolis under St Peter's. Christians (and some pagans) had tombs there because it was outside of the city, and they also believed that St Peter had been buried there himself after he was killed in the Circus of Nero. That circus no longer exists, but it was right next to the current basilica...
The Cancelleria Reliefs
Tomb of the Haterii Relief (a possible topic for my honors thesis)
Sarcophagus of Junius Bassus
THE Prima Porta of Augustus! Kinda famous
An Art History inside joke...
heehee
Temple of Deified Hadrian! Now part of the stock exchange
St Peter's Ponte Sant' Angelo and the Tiber
Scavi entrance
The next week was another weeklong field trip. This time we went to Campania (the Naples region, a bit to the south). It was a looong week, and less bus rides meant less naptime and more lectures. As always though, it was a good trip. That gets it's own post though. Anyway, the weekend we got back, it was Easter! A few of us were able to get tickets to Sunday mass at the Vatican.

He is so old.
Soo many people...
Making his annual address. I think he said Happy Easter in like 60 languages
Posters for this EVERYWHERE. Still up there a few weeks later.

Even though we had lived there for a while, I think we still counted as pilgrims. That's kinda cool to think about, and it's awesome that I was able to see the Pope while I was in Rome. It was amazing, and it's not even like you have to be religious to appreciate it. At least, that's what I think!

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Arch of Titusarchoftitusarchoftitus


Once again, I find myself behind in blogging. There are only three weeks (including this one) left in the semester! Hard to believe...just when I'm getting the hang of it all, I have to leave. Oh well.

Here's a brief synopsis of one of the past four weeks (not including our week trip to Campania last week).

Week 9 took us to the Roman Forum, yet again, but this time we got to see some Flavian buildings (the Flavians were AWESOME, except that little mistake of destroying the Temple in Jerusalem. Whoops). I did my site presentation on one of their monuments, the Arch of Titus (the guy who set fire to the temple, supposedly on 'accident'), and we got the see the granddaddy of all Roman monuments, the Colosseum.

Wall Painting at house on Palatine
garden at Domitian's Palace
Arch of Titus!
IN the Colosseum...seats for Senators
Proof I'm in Rome
Bones of animals found during excavation
We had permission to go underneath!

hehe...Arch of Titus from the Colosseum
Arch of Constantine
One of my profs took this picture...this road was cut through a spur of a hill by Mussolini to connect his monument (white thing in back to the left) to the Colosseum
A sticker, I swear.

At the Palazzo Massimo...
The Terme Ruler
Pieta of Augustus
The Discus throwers
Sleeping Hermaphrodite (remember that word, Uncle Paul). Can't post the pic of the other side for obvious reasons
Opus Sectile Floor

(Sorry about the weird underline...for some reason I can't get it to go away). Here are some shots from Art History. Bleh. I'm so done with that class! :)

A Borromini Facade
Bernini's Fountain of the 4 Rivers
Borromini Lantern
Finally...the Pantheon isn't crowded!
Only a few posts left! Stay tuned...

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Istanbul, not Constantinople


After a week of living out of my duffle bag, it was not time to go back to Rome and normal Centro life, but time to repack the duffle and do some quick laundry (with 35 other people) and head out on spring break trips. We had people go to London, Prague, Budapest, and Barcelona. Seven of us, however, went eastward to Istanbul, otherwise known as Constantinople, and the later capital of the Roman empire.

Hell yes we represent classics nerds wherever we go.

I only had 4 days there, as I had to get back to Rome and work on my site presentation (how lame), but those 4 days were incredible, and like nothing I had ever experienced before! It was a busy 4 days as we rushed around trying to see as much as possible, but so worth it! It's a pretty cool place.

I need to give a shout out to Bahaus Hostel though, because it was a fantastic place. Super hospitable, the staff was so friendly (and quite hilarious when evening fell), and we met some cool people. Owen made some good friends in a group of young Japanese men who treated us all to a wonderful rendition of "I want it that way" by the good ol' Backstreet Boys on karaoke night. If you go to Istanbul and are looking for a lively, cool place to stay, Bahaus is your place! Lu, one of the staff was fresh off the boat from Australia, and she said HEAPS all the time!

Anyway, the first day we were there we saw the giant Cistern (a giant well), the Blue Mosque, and ate some great food that was not pasta or pizza. The Blue Mosque is HUGE, and is quite a spectacle inside. There are so many things to look at! It was built to be a competitor to the Aya Sofia (coming later), so the king made it larger and more ornate. Here are some pictures...

Basilica Cistern...used to be the main water source for the city
Where?!
Oh. Apparently someone thought this was the way it went.
Outside the Blue Mosque

Inside the Blue Mosque
The lights hung all the way from the ceiling to just barely over your head! Maybe so low for candles back in the day?
The chains are from the lights

Saul, at the hostel, after a long day's work

The next day took us to Troy, which is kind of a pain to get to, so we had to use a travel agency. Pretty much, as far as I'm concerned, Troy is a pilgrimage for lovers of ancient culture. The Iliad is one of the first texts that was written down and influenced everyone from early Greeks to the first Christians. It also didn't hurt that the intermediate Greek class at the Centro is translating it! If you don't know the story, or don't really care either way, don't go to Troy. There really isn't much there, and the first excavations were conducted by a rather shady german guy named Herman. I loved it though!
The walls of Troy (the Troy from the Iliad)

The theater (from a later date)


Yep, that's my copy of Iliad in Greek
Reading the Greek....haha
Model of the Troy of the story
Trojan horse, from the Trojan horse
A silly reconstruction (why would it have had a house?)
Coffer from a later temple

We got to see the Trojan horse from the movie, but didn't stop by it. Apparently all the girls like to touch it because they think Brad Pitt touched it. It was a 5 hour drive back to Istanbul though, so we were a tad short on time. I think we got back around 11 pm...just in time for the karaoke night that I was talking about.

Now, since Wednesday was the day after Troy, we decided to take it kinda easy the next day. The morning was filled with Museums (landmarks), so that afternoon we decided that we just had to experience a Turkish Bath. BUT before we got there, we saw one of my favorites, the Aya Sofia, and Topkapi Palace. Aya Sofia was originally a Byzantine church, chalk full of splendid gold mosaics (like the ones from the Duomos in Sicily), gold paint, and beautiful Christian art. It's also enormous, and until the 1530's, it was the biggest cathedral in the world. Well, Constantinople was take by the Ottoman empire in the 1400's, and then the Sofia was converted into a Mosque. It was a mosque until only recently, though the Blue Mosque was built to be the 'true mosque' of Istanbul.
Mosaic over the entrance to the church (only the emperor could come through these doors)
Some Muslim elements...view from the second floor

Surviving mosaic of Madonna and child with some angels to the right
Crosses rubbed out for geometric designs
the dome!
Where the Byzantine emperors were crowned
Mosaic over the door (I'm kinda surprised this wasn't rubbed out when it was converted to a Mosque)
Another mosaic from a doorway outside the Sofia
Crosses that weren't rubbed out

So we next went to the museum that once was the palace of the Ottoman kings, Topkapi Palace. It's right next to the Sofia and the Blue Mosque, and is no less lavish. The complex is unending, and I'm not kidding. We were there for a few hours and didn't see everything! What we did see was the unbelievable collections of jewels and armor that used to belong to the royal family. I had never seen anything like it! It's almost like you think the stuff is fake because there's no way that many jewels and that much precious metal can exist together, and that someone is not only wealthy enough to own it, but own multiple things like it. Of course, you're not allowed to take pictures of any of the stuff, so I don't have any examples...you'll just have to take my word for it!

First entrance, takes you through the courtyard
Second entrance, and where the king used to sit when receiving envoys and all that
Inside of one of the other buildings on the complex
Tiles.

Then we went to the baths....

We all decided that we had to pay a bit extra for the whole experience, so along with time in the plunge pool and the steam room, we bought a salt massage. At the old-fashioned baths (which is what we did), you're split up so men go one place and women go another. They give you stuff to change into, a towel, and then you go into the baths. Haha. It's a great octagonal shaped room with smaller rooms radiating off with fountains for cold and hot water. In the middle is a big stone platform (also an octagon, and the entire room is made of stone). Everything is also heated, so it gets a bit hot. The doorway opposite the entrance leads into the plunge pools, which are basically hot tubs. You go in the pools first, and then lay out on the platform. Then a woman comes and first rubs you with something that scrapes the dead skin off (it's so weird, but it feels amazing), rinses, and then basically lathers you up with soap and salt. haha I can only imagine what you're thinking as you read this, but afterwards, you feel soo amazing. Clean, soft skin, and utterly relaxed. It was a fantastic end to the day...and last full day in Istanbul.

Alas, Thursday was our last day. The first half of the day we went to the Istanbul Archaeological Museum, which definitely deserved more than half a day, but we had to get to the Grand Bazaar, after all. I went a bit out of control with the pictures, but here are a few.

Basalt Lion at the entrance to the pre-Classical stuff
Egyptian Altar
Mosaic that used to flank the Ishtar Gate(?)
Some of the earliest texts
Shoes.
Zeus and Zeus
Athena about to kill something. ha
Scenes from the Alexander tomb

A dog's tombstone!

The Grand bazaar was hectic, as you would expect, but things were relatively inexpensive, and I made friends with one scarf salesman and scored a discount for the people I was with. I think I'm getting better at this bargaining thing...but anyway, Istanbul was a fun time. As I said, it's a gritty city, but it's so culturally rich, a a trip is most definitely worth it. Just avoid the Turkish Prisons!